Place des Vosges

The jewel of the Marais is the elegant Place des Vosges.  I love this wonderful square for so many reasons.  Built in the early 1600's by Henri IV, it is the oldest square in Paris.  Intended to be a royal palace (that curiously never housed a king or queen), the buildings soon evolved into an entire square of architecturally similar "hotels" occupied by the French aristocracy,  each connected to others by covered arcades.  The beautiful buildings of red brick and white stone are commonly cited as one of the first successful attempts at urban planning, a major departure from the random buildings of medieval Paris that popped up on any empty piece of land.  The idea proved popular and was often emulated in other European cities thereafter.  

The square is framed by carefully sculpted linden trees on all four sides.  As symmetrical and well ordered as it all appears, the central square (dedicated to Louis XIII) was nonetheless the site of numerous duels, and behind the walls of the court, tales of intrigue would make modern soap operas pale in comparison.  

Centuries later, one of the apartments in the Place des Vosges (#6) became the home of my all-time favorite writer--Victor Hugo.  This is where he wrote Les Miserables (which is in my opinion one of the greatest novels ever written), and his home has been preserved as a museum.  Hugo was politically active and very influential in a time of great social upheaval in France, so his personal story and his literary works reflect the events of his time.  

 One can sit in the Place des Vosges and be overwhelmed by the sheer beauty of this architectural marvel; mesmerized by all of the history and literary genius that unfolded in this relatively small and secluded square.  Or one can shop the galleries; have lunch in the sidewalk cafes; listen to street musicians, or just sit on a bench and be charmed by present day family life that continues to play out day after day in the sand box, on the park benches, around the fountain, or along the paths where children squeal in delight as they chase the pigeons. 

In a small space, this square embodies all that I love about Paris:  art, architecture, music, history, literature, food.. and endlessly fascinating people.