Ascension Day

Yesterday was a public holiday in France (Jour de l'Ascension).  While not particularly religious, the French are receptive to a day off, especially in the month of May.  (Labor Day was May 1, Victory in Europe Day was Wednesday.  Pentecost comes later this month, and Mother's Day is coming up on the 26th)  How does one "celebrate" the Ascension, you ask?  Well....by taking the kids to a park, or museum, or out for a stroll in the sunshine.  

My day started at the Jardin des Plantes located just across the Seine  Although few shops and services were open, it was great fun watching the families sprawled on the grass in the parks; the children chasing each other through the long "allees" of trees; older folks deep in conversation on the park benches, and lovers strolling hand in hand throughout the city, oblivious to the rest of the world.

On the far side of the gardens, I stumbled upon les Arenes de Lutece, an amphitheater dating from the 1st century AD that once hosted gladiators, athletic competitions, confrontations with wild animals, and all the other usual entertainment of the era.  Today the stone "box seats" were occupied by parents reading newspapers while watching their children practice soccer skills and scooter maneuvers!  All the current action has apparently moved to the Stade de France!

I moved on to St Germain and eventually had a bite to eat in a sidewalk cafe near Notre Dame.  I wanted to browse a bit at Shakespeare & Co but there was a long line to get into the tiny bookstore.  I decided to come back another day for reading material in English.   (It was a moment of weakness, I admit.  I should be reading in French anyway!)

Moving on to the bouquinistes along the Seine...I surveyed their wares and feel certain some of those dusty tomes were in those same stalls 45 years ago when I first came to this city.  These old book purveyors must be tax write-off enterprises (except for the postcard and trinket folks who continue to do a brisk business in souvenir kitsch.)  I've never actually seen anyone purchase a philosophical treatise on nihilism, the complete works of Seneca or the collections of some obscure Latvian poet.  That said, my cynicism has been attenuated by reading the link above.  Who knew that the bouquinistes played such an important role in the French Revolution and with the Resistance during WWII.  I owe them an apology!!

I found myself working my way back home through Ile St Louis...with the intent of getting 'une boule de glace Berthillon" (dark chocolate, of course) no matter how long it took. This is quite possibly the best ice cream anywhere.  Indeed the lines were long, but the wait was worth it!  See the embedded video?  You can almost taste it!

Arriving back home around 5 pm, I collapsed on the sofa and fell asleep watching the news, thus ruining any chance of sleeping throughout the night.  My jet lag is kicking in at odd hours, and I'm definitely not doing what I need to do to power through it!  

Update on the Fridge Saga:  Still no fridge....They say "Maybe Monday" but I'm not counting on it.  No use setting yourself up for disappointment.  I am in France after all!  It's part of the experience.